Gran Paradiso Summit 4061 m (13323 ft) standard route

The Gran Paradiso, standing at 4,061 meters (13,323 feet), is the highest peak located entirely within Italy. This magnificent summit, part of the Graian Alps, is a popular destination for both seasoned mountaineers and adventure seekers. While the ascent is considered one of the easier climbs among the 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps, it still offers a thrilling challenge with breathtaking views of the surrounding alpine landscapes. Reaching the summit rewards climbers with stunning vistas, including the neighboring Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. For those looking to experience a less crowded but equally majestic alpine adventure, Gran Paradiso is an excellent choice.

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Practical Information:

Location: Gran Paradiso is one of the highest peaks entirely within Italy, located in the heart of the Graian Alps. This majestic summit offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding alpine landscapes, including famous neighboring peaks like Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.

Exploration: The ascent to Gran Paradiso is physically demanding and requires good fitness and preparation. Outdoor enthusiasts seeking an exhilarating challenge will find this climb both rewarding and awe-inspiring. While considered more accessible than other alpine summits, it’s not without its difficulties. The route crosses glaciers with crevasses, and the high altitude can be challenging. For those taking on their first 4,000-meter peak, going with a guide is highly recommended. I went with a guide on my ascent, and it made the experience much safer and enjoyable. I highly recommend them: Monviso Outdoor.

Transportation: Reaching Gran Paradiso typically starts from the village of Pont in Valsavarenche, which is accessible by car. From there, hikers begin their ascent to the summit. Unlike some alpine peaks, there are no cable cars to assist with the climb, so the entire journey must be done on foot.

Weather: The best time to climb Gran Paradiso is during the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is more stable and the conditions are favorable for trekking. 

Accommodation: Climbers can spend the night at Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II (2732 m/8963 ft) or Rifugio Chabod (2750 m/9022 ft), both offering a convenient base for the final ascent to the summit. Staying overnight at one of these refuges helps with acclimatization and allows for an early start on summit day. I did the Summit from Rifugio Chabod, less popular but less crowded.

Climb from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II

General Information

Elevation gain: 2101 m (6893 ft)
Starting altitude: 1960 m (6430 ft)
Maximum altitude/peak: 4061 m (13323 ft)
Exposure: Various
Grade: F+

Day 1:

From Pont, following the signs, you cross the bridge and walk along the stream on flat terrain until you reach the start of the beautiful mule track to the Vittorio Emanuele II refuge. The path first passes through the woods and then opens up into more spacious areas, reaching the refuge in about 2 hours. Map here.

Day 2:

Continue along traces of a moderately ascending path.

From here, there are 3 options:

• Old route (few cairns, only at the beginning of the valley): You follow the entire valley of debris and glaciated rocks, making a wide right turn into the basin, which is bordered on the left by the moraine of the Gran Paradiso Glacier. You step onto the glacier at an altitude of around 3000 meters and climb up moderately steep slopes, which, in the late season, can be very icy. You then reach the characteristic 'Schiena d'Asino' (Donkey’s Back), where the route joins the one coming from the Chabod refuge near the distinctive Becca di Moncorvè.
• New route: Instead of going through the valley, you move onto the moraine on the left. You ascend the rocky ridge along traces of the path and rocky sections (it’s not well marked but intuitive) and follow the entire moraine, well-marked with cairns, above the Testa di Moncorvè. You reach an altitude of 3000 meters, step onto the Laveciau Glacier, and with a short traverse, you join the path from the Chabod refuge. You then ascend the valley on slopes that, in the late season, are heavily crevassed, until you reach the snowy crest of the Schiena d’Asino near the Becca di Moncorvè.
• New via ferrata: From the col on the moraine, where you can descend onto the Laveciau Glacier, described above, you can continue along the wide ridge toward a sign visible from below. Here begins a new via ferrata equipped with a metal cable, anchors, and rungs. It roughly follows the ridge that overlooks the glacier. The route partially utilizes ledges, connected by short vertical sections. There is an athletic move toward the end to round an overhanging spur. Finally, you step onto the glacier at an altitude of around 3500 meters, just before the hump that you must cross to reach the junction with the trail coming from the Chabod. (Ferrata equipment recommended).

A final slope, forming a semicircle below the Roc peak, leads to the terminal crevasse (if very open, a ladder may be set up), from which you reach the ridge of rocks and snow. It is straightforward until the final 20 meters before the Madonna statue.

To avoid overcrowding and bottlenecks, a clockwise ascent/descent route was established in 2019. It is recommended to ascend by traversing under the Roc summit on the Pont side, then climb the left wall leading to the Madonna (rungs). Descend initially along the crest, where there are fixed anchors, and then on the Cogne side, a small ledge (classic route) 5-10 meters higher than the ascent path. Map here.

Climb from Rifugio Chabod

General Information

Elevation Gain: 2250 m (7381 ft)
Starting Elevation: 1834 m (6043 ft)
Maximum Elevation/Summit: 4061 m (13323 ft)
Exposure: North-West
Difficulty Level: PD 

Day 1:

From the Pravieux pasture, a comfortable mule track initially leads to the Lavassey pasture (2,194 m / 7,201 ft) and then, with wide switchbacks, to the Chabod Refuge. Map here.

Day 2:

From the Chabod Refuge, you ascend to the winter shelter and follow the water pipeline that continues into the valley below the Montandaynè Glacier. You proceed along the moraine on a comfortable path until you reach the base of the glacier itself. Here, you traverse to the right, moving towards the north face of Gran Paradiso.

Continue to the right, being cautious of the numerous crevasses, and enter the valley leading to the Schiena d’Asino. Then, ascend the col and join the path coming from the Vittorio Emanuele Refuge, just below the Becca di Moncorvè. From there, take a left to climb the gentle, icy slope that leads to the terminal crevasse, not far from the summit ridge. You’ll encounter the easy rock sections of the eastern ridge.

A final easy but exposed crossing on the Tribolazione Glacier leads to the summit statue of the Madonna. Map here.

Planning a perfect day trip doesn't have to be overwhelming. By following these steps and considering your preferences, you can create an unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, choose your destination, and get ready for an adventure!