Rifugio Capanna Margherita 4554 m (14947 ft) standard route

Perched at the pinnacle of the Monte Rosa massif, Punta Gnifetti, home to Rifugio Capanna Margherita, stands as one of the highest points in the Alps. This breathtaking summit offers an exhilarating adventure and unparalleled panoramic views that stretch across the alpine landscape. Although this iconic destination is a coveted spot for seasoned climbers, I encourage you to explore it through a unique perspective with this thoughtfully designed itinerary.

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Practical Information:

Location: Capanna Margherita is one of the highest peaks in the Alps, located on the Monte Rosa massif. This stunning summit offers panoramic views and a truly challenging adventure.
Exploration: The ascent to Capanna Margherita is demanding and requires a good level of fitness and preparation. For outdoor enthusiasts seeking a thrilling challenge, this peak offers breathtaking scenery and a rewarding sense of accomplishment. However, this is not a hike for beginners. The glacier has crevasses, and the altitude can be tough to handle. It’s an excellent choice for experienced hikers looking to conquer their first alpine peak. I went with a guide, as it was my first alpine climb, and I highly recommend them: Monviso Outdoor.

General Information:

Elevation gain: 1350 m (4429 ft)
Starting altitude: 3250 m (10663 ft)
Maximum altitude/peak: 4556 m (14947 ft)
Exposure: Various
Grade: F

Transportation: Reaching Capanna Margherita requires taking a cable car from Stafal, Gressoney to Punta Indren (40€). Be sure to check the operating schedules for the cable cars in advance.
Weather: The best time to visit Capanna Margherita is during the summer months when the weather is more stable and the views are clear.
Accommodation: You can stay overnight at Capanna Gnifetti (3647 m/11965 ft) or Rifugio Mantova (3498 m/11476 ft).

Day 1:

Upon reaching the Indren Glacier, traverse over glacially-polished rocks with a gentle ascent to gain a foothold on the rocky spur. You can choose to pass by the Mantova Hut by staying on the trail that follows further to the left, or head towards the Gnifetti Hut by climbing more decisively to the right (fixed ropes and steps) to reach the top of the spur. From there, make an ascending traverse to reach the Gnifetti Hut.

(If starting from Passo dei Salati, add about an hour of climbing and 350 meters of elevation gain, bypassing the Stolemberg with a partially equipped trail.)

Day 2:

From the hut where you spent the night, put on your crampons right away and begin ascending the glacier (be aware of many crevasses, some of which are hidden). The route involves some steep sections near the Vincent Pyramid and the Cristo delle Vette (Balmenhorn). The climb becomes gentler in this extraordinary environment, passing at the base of the Corno Nero, Ludwigshöhe, and Parrotspitze, eventually reaching the Lys Pass (4,250 m).
A traverse slightly downhill under the Parrotspitze brings you below the Punta Gnifetti. From here, an ascending traverse under the icefall leads to the Gnifetti Pass, where a final short push brings you to the summit, home to the Capanna Regina Margherita.

You can access to the map here.

Planning a perfect day trip doesn't have to be overwhelming. By following these steps and considering your preferences, you can create an unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags, choose your destination, and get ready for an adventure!